Fete de Mouton

So another Muslim holiday has come- fete de mouton or "festival of sacrifice". This fete comes approximately 70 days after the end of the month of Ramadan. The big thing for this holiday is the killing or sacrificing of a sheep (in commemoration of Abraham's sacrifice of a ram for God). People have been preparing for this fete for a while- hence the sheep all over the place. And apparently most holidays for Muslims here (like Ramadan and this one) involve celebrating over three days although I'm not quite sure what exactly occurs during those days. I did though see festivities for 2 days this time.

Things started Wednesday. First and foremost- no school- yay! So instead of going to school, I went to see the prayer for fetede mouton. All Muslim men (boys) go out to this huge field outside of town to prayer (there is a particular prayer for the fete). Hundreds of men came out and my postmate and I were not only the only white people but the only women (when I asked I was told the women 'don't want to come'however I believe they are more so not allowed to come to the prayer because usually the women are separated from the men during prayer so that wouldn't be possible in the open field). But yes my postmate and I went and even got to sit on chairs under a tent with thebigwigs of the area (they also came to watch even though they are not muslim so it wasn't too weird to just watch everyone pray).

Poor little sheep waiting to be sacrificed right after the prayer

The prayer altogether lasted maybe 5 minutes. Then the first sheep sacrifice was given at the field although a bunch of kids and people stood around so I wasn't actually able to see that although I did see the poor sheep before he was gone. After the prayer, we went back into town and waited to be invited to some fetes.

Men praying on the left and then me with my friend right after the prayer

In the afternoon, some of our friends invited us out for a drink (soda- they don't drink alcohol) and to my surprise they showed up with an entire meal- they brought igname (kind of like potatoes but not- really almost no flavor), rice, tomato sauce, bread and of course- mouton (sheep). Then directly after eating with them, I came home and my neighbor was feting as well and invited me to eat more food and more sheep. They had killed their sheep earlier in the day so I was kind of glad I wasn't around for that - although I did see the blood still on the ground and the lovely skin of the animal hanging on the wall. Oh and my neighbor said she would show me the head...still waiting to see that...

Skin from the sheep my neighbors killed...still on the wall right now by the way

So Wednesday was prayer, sacrifice and lots of food. Then today there were more festivities- although not as extensive. And unfortunately there was school. But then this afternoon- surprise- there was fantasia again! Who knew! So I went out this afternoon and stood with everyone to see the horses and also try not get trampled when one goes loose. And this fantasia was even more fun than the one for Ramadan because I got to see a bunch of students and other people I knew.

Overall fete de mouton was a success and I can't wait for Ramadan and fete de mouton to come again next year. I already know I will miss these holidays when I get back home-nothing like them there.

Yay- Fantasia again!

Mt. Djumbaul

Banyo is in the Adamawa region which is rather mountainous and therefore of course there mountains surrounding Banyo. And there is one mountain in particular, Mt. Djumbaul (I think that's the name) which people climb during dry season. So right now dry season is slowly creeping in and I have been dying to climb themountain since I got here so when my postmate said she wanted to climb it one last time before she leaves, I was totally in. So we have been waiting for a good time (you have to wait for the path to clear up and also for the rain to stop). Well this weekend the time finally came.

We (my postmate, 2 friends, and myself) headed out for the mountain around 7:30am Saturday. The path is actually right near my house too- convenient. We walked and walked and eventually came to some steps which were super steep but kept walking. As we got higher, we could see more and more of Banyo and there were huge rocks all around which kept getting bigger and bigger. we reached the top around 9am so only about an hour and a half to get up-not bad.

Now at the top of the mountain, there is not only a great view of Banyo and surrounding mountains, but some history as well. In case you were unaware, Cameroon used to be colonized by Germans (and yes others like obviously the French and British) but the Germans really left a lot behind and you can still see buildings and structures that they built all over Cameroon. So now at the top of the mountain in Banyo, there were a few things the Germans left behind: structures from where they possibly looked out and fought, some homes, and a prison- yes a prison which I dont know how on earth or more so I can't imagine how on earth a prison was maintained at the top of this mountain- having to make the climb up and then be left up there in chains- miserable. But it was really neat to see all these things left behind and also to imagine how life would have been for Germans in Cameroon in Banyo.

German prison

In addition to the history all around, there were also huge rocks (as I already mentioned). But there was one in particular at the top and the 2 friends (Cameroonians) said that people climb to the top of this rock so I thought I would give it a try. Huge mistake. It was an amazing view atop the rock but oh man it was scary scary to climb up and more so to go down- I had to sit and kind of crawl. I told them never again would I climb that rock.

The giant rock we climbed- from the other side though clearly no way from this angle

View from atop the rock

We spent a good while exploring the top of the mountain although it was a bit difficult to walk around since there was still a lot of grasses and plants (it's not quite ideal time to climb) and then we headed back down, stopping along the way to sit and rest and just enjoy the view. It was amazing just sitting and overlooking Banyo- it looked so peaceful from far away. But alas we did have to actually go back to Banyo. And man I must say the walk back or more so down was almost as painful as the walk up. But I made it and we actually finished it all before noon. So it was an overall success and I am so glad that I now know how to get there. I may even try to make it a regular routine to go up the mountain every weekend (I hope). But I do know I will be going up again soon- apparently the teachers and students at my school always climb it together- very exciting. This can all be practice for climbing Mt Cameroon- that is definitely on my list of things to do before I leave.

Back to Banyo

Market/Tiket Visit

So here in Banyo you can't exactly just go to the grocery store or find a Walmart/Target to do your shopping. Pretty much there are 2 options- the corner store boutique or the market and to get everything you would need you have to go to both- neither option has everything- theres no one-stop shopping here for sure. The corner boutique has mostly packaged items like cookies (lots of cookies), margarine, NIDO (powderedmilk), candles, paper products, shampoo and bread is really the only fresh food item you can find there. Now the market is where you do your real shopping.

In Banyo market days are Tuesday and Friday. These are the days when truckloads of food and products come in and everyone comes out to dothere shopping. Other days of the week you can certainly walk through the market and find some things, but Tuesdays and Fridays are when you can find some really good stuff and stock up (kind of since most food doesn't last that long and not too many people have a refrigerator).

So in the market you see just a bunch of wooden shacks and stands where people are selling all kinds of stuff. I would say there is some organization to the market but not much. It took me a good week of just wondering through on visits to finally understand the maze of the market. There are vegetables, pagne (fabric), jewelry, clothing, meat, etc. And sometimes it can be fun wondering through and hunting for things but other times that market can be very overwhelming. For one thing, nothing nothing is labeled with a price. It's all up to bargaining or at least being familiar with prices beforehand so you know if someone is trying to rip you off. And then walking thought people are always trying to get you to come and look and buy something. I have tried to leisurely wonder through and kind of window shop if you will but I don't think that concept exists here - peopleget in and get out. So sometimes the walkway is really narrow and/or muddy and people almost run you over. But on a good day, it can be a lot of fun- maybe you find some great things- exactly what you've been looking for and you even dosome great bargaining. A good day at the market can really put you in an amazing mood and make you feel like you really accomplished something for the day.

So today was a market day and today was a special market visit- I went to the market at Tiket (ti-kay). It's a nearby village/area about a 10-minute moto ride outside Banyo. And they have their market on Tuesday which their market is much smaller but the unique thing is that on Tuesday people go out to Tiket to sell and buy cattle. So I went with my postmate to see the cattle market. People came from surrounding villages bringing their cattle to sell. Now we aren't sure exactly but we believe it is some kind of bidding process. We did see all the cattle though being brought into an enclosure and it was almost kind of scary - standing in the same area just a couple feet away from huge cattle so we didn't stay close too long and moved over to see the sheep which are being bought and sold like crazy right now in preparation for fete de mouton (should be next week so I'll explain that fete then). After looking at the animals, we walked though the market. It was super nice because it is much more open than the market in Banyo- things were spread out, you had plenty of space to move. It was quite peaceful and the weather was amazing since we were a little outside of Banyo. In fact, it was such a great experience I am tempted to go out to the TuesdayTiket market more often in lieu of going to the market in town. But really in the end,it's always a love-hate relationship with the market no matter which market it is and you can never predict what the next visit will be like. But unfortunately no matter how bad one market trip may be, you always have to go back again- there's no other choice.

Cattle

Tiket Market

Spices, beans and lots of other things

Pagne

Let's Talk About School

Well I guess I should share a bit about school here in Cameroon seeing as how that's where I spend a good amount of my time being a teacher and all. But let me preface/warn that school here is so different from school in America that I will most likely end up writing multiple entries and still not even cover but half of how different it is. And even then it's really just one of those things you would have to experience to fully grasp. But I will try. Here we go.

Where to begin- mmm with the students. Let's take a look from a student's point of view. Ok scenario- so it's a week or two before school starts. Youneed to register with the school. When you do so, you must show a medical card with your medical history. You also need to pay which depending on your grade level could vary from not too expensive (10,000cfa) to kind of really expensive (30,000+cfa) (when you at least compare to the fact that school is free in the US). Then you need to get your uniform made. At my school, they all wear a solid blue uniform. Girls must of course wear a dress while boys wear pants and a button up. On your uniform, you must also have your name and class stitched on the chest in red thread. Then if you have the money, you would try to buy some of the books for a few of your classes (but most do not- for example in my class with about 60 students, maybe 6 have the book). Ok now you are set for school.

Well school stars the first week of September but you kind of go maybe if you don't have other things going on. And if you do go, you maybe have class if any teachers show up to teach. Then after the first week, everyone is for the most part finally back and things are moving. So Monday morning you get up and get moving to school. Depending on how far you live, you will want to leave around 6:30am to walk to school and be there by 7:15am. (Now keep in mind this is just my school in my town. It takes me 45 mins - I think other students are even farther). Also it being Monday, you should really try to be a little early for the assembly- every Monday you and all the students line up in front of the flagpole. You watch some students raise the Cameroonian flag and sing the national hymn. Then the principal addresses the entire school.

Monday Assembly

Ok now school can start. You slowly startto see what your schedule is like. As a student, you stay in one classroom with the same group of students all day which the size of your class could vary from maybe 30-100+. Your teachers come in during their period and teach. You have about 8 different subjects although you could possibly not have a teacher for a subject or two. Classes are an hour long starting at 7:30am and ending at 3:00pm. You have 2 breaks a day- one 15-minutes and one 20-minutes. During the breaks, you can go to the 'market' aka the area where a few moms come and sell food like beignets, bread and beans but remember there isn't exactly a cafeteria or placeto sit down and eat. On Wednesday school ends early- 12:40 for clubs which may or may not actually function. And then you could possibly have class on Saturday if a teacher needs to make up classes. Now subjects vary from good old math, English, French, history and sciences But now don't forget manual labor- yes this is a class and you get a grade for it.

Students walking home from school

In class you sit on a wooden bench connected to a table all of which is long enough to fit up to about 6-7 students (small students that is). During class you copy a bunch of notes as you probably don't have books so you will want to make sure you get all the notes you can to study. In your classroom, you only have the desks and blackboard. As a student, you are also expected to keep your classroom clean to the chef de classe (head of class) will create groups of students and you will be assigned a day every week to clean the room.

Ok well that is just a brief intro to school here in Cameroon or at least here in my town Banyo. I'll add more later for sure....

Getting Around

So getting around aka like going anywhere is a little different here. You can't exactly just jump into you car and hit the road. Nope.

So starting with the basics- first you can always walk. Yes good old walking on foot. This is my personal favorite mode of transportation and the one I use most often. I walk to the market, to other people's houses, even to school. Walking is nice - you get to see people and enjoy the town, get some exercise and enjoy the weather. Now walking does take some time though so you need to plan. For example, I get up at 5am every morning so I can leave by 6:30am because it's about a 45 minute walk to school. But it's not bad and hey walking is free.

Well if you are running late, maybe it's extra hot out or there's a lot of mud or dust - your next option for getting where you need to go is a moto taxi. Here in Banyo, next to walking this is about the only other way you can get anywhere in town (unless you happen to have your own car which most people don't). So you can find a moto just about anywhere walking down the street. Some intersections are busier than others. And you do need to be a bit cautionary - some of these drivers haven't exactly finished school aka they are maybe 15 years old so you need to first tell them where you want to go. Then tell them 'doucement' so they don't drive like a speed maniac and then of course if along the way it appears they are going in the wrong direction, just point them in the correct one- they are not known for their accuracy or knowledge of some locations in town. But motos are certainly convenient and usually only 100CFA a trip so not bad. And you would be very surprised at what a moto driver can carry or how many people he can fit on one bike. I've seen 5 people on one and I've personally carried a table on another.

Moto drivers in the market

Now by foot and motos are for in town travel. When it comes to travelling to other cities and around the country, you have some other options. There are agencies where you buy a ticket to a city and you usually go in a van. Here is Banyo there are a few agencies to choose from. They are not too bad- it just depends on how long you ride is and how bad the road is. And again, as with motos, you'd be suprised how much stuff and how many people they can cram into one van (look back at my entry about getting to post- you can see just how much crap they can pile on top).

Mayo Banyo Voyage

MBV Van

Another option is taking a private vehicle. Now I have not yet done this to a larger city, but you go to a gare and pay for a seat and then basically have to wait around until all the seats are sold and the car is ready to go. The cars are for some reason usually red and old little Toyotas. And now if you think after 5 seats have been sold that means the car is full, you are mistaken. Nope, at least 7 passengers in a car. And I took a car one time to a smaller town about 45 minutes away- we had 4 people up front, 5 in the back seat and 2 people sat on the roof. Anything is possible.

Gare in Banyo

Then another option if you are heading to the north from maybe the capital is the train. And you cant take this at night but don't think that means you'll be getting much sleep while traveling. Apparently you need to watch your stuff pretty well while on the train.

Now these are just some of the more common ways of getting around in town and to other towns. There are a few more options- like in bigger cities you can take a regular car taxi- but their still not like taxis back home- oh no- just because you are in the car does not mean the driver will not pick up more passengers along the way. They really economise here. Oh and then did I also mention that most of the roads are not paved- yeah. So some things to keep in mind while traveling- wear comfortable clothes, maybe take a book because you will most likely be waiting around for a car or van to leave (oh yeah they never leave on time if they even have a scheduled time to begin with at all), be prepared in case you car breaks down or you get stuck along the road, oh and make sure when traveling to other towns you take your identity card- you will be stopped by the police. And as overwhelming as traveling and transportation can be sometimes, it is certainly an adventure. So you have that to look forward to.

World Teachers Day!

October 5 - what do you think of when you hear this date? Just another regular day? Well maybe in America, but here in Cameroon October 5 is a day dedicated to celebrating teachers! It is World Teachers Day (journee mondiale de l'enseignant - it is an international holiday so Cameroon isn't the only country celebrating). But what exactly goes on for this day?

Well the festivities first kicked off or atleast preparation for festivities began about 2 weeks prior when the teachers began purchasing pagne (fabric) for the day. (Yes I don't think I've mentioned this, but of course every holiday gets its very own fabric every year so of course you have to buy it) Anyway so my school began collecting money and fabric came in. Well then of course you have to get something (an outfit) made. Well all the female teachers at my school decided we should all wear not only obvious matching fabric but a matching style outfit. So we all got our fabric and met up at the tailor and after about an hour debate between a dress or a kabba (traditional outfit-) and in the end, the kabba somehow won out. But overall I was happy and didn't mind- it was niceto be included with the teachers and I mean of course I need my very own kabba so mind as well be teachers day pagne.

Teacher Day Pagne!

the kabba!

The next event for teachers day was actually the Saturday before (October 2) - an athletic walk. Teachers (from not only my school, butall theschools in Banyo) were to meet at 6:30am to walk to the market in Tiket. Well now I showed up at 6:30 and thought this would maybe be an hour walk tops. But oh how I was mistaken. Tiket is actually quite a walk outside Banyo. I almost thought we'd end up in Nigeria (not really though). But we walked and walked and walked some more and finally arrived at the market in Tiket - about 45-60 minute walk out. Then before turning around, we of course had to do some stretches and mini-aerobics exercises. Upon returning to Banyo around 9:30am, we were treated to juice, water and of course everyone wants a beer at 9:30am so there was that as well. Andalthough I was slightly tired and sweaty, overall the walk as nice - got to see Tiket and lots of countryside and some exercise.

Now- for the actual October 5. For starters, there was no school (duh) but alas we teachers still needed to wake up early for a parade which was to start at 8:00am. So I got up, put on my kabba and grabbed my camera. Walking to the meeting point, people shout "bonne fete" - very nice. Then well the parade was on African time- so it actually started a little after 9am - we all got into rows, the drums and horn started and off we went down the main strip of Banyo to the technical high school. Upon arrival, all teachers filed in to hear some speeches and a round table discussion all followed by cocktails.

Parade

Then later in the afternoon, there was a football (aka soccer) match between secondary and elementary school teachers. And then even later in the evening there were various parties at people's house with food and drinks and dancing. Which unfortunately I have did not attend - but let me explain - one downside to Teachers Day - there is school the next day. So if you go out and party, you still have to get up around 5am (or at least I do to be at school by 7:30) so I passed on the evening party in exchange for a good night sleep. But all around, teachers day was a nice break from school and a day dedicated to celebrating teachers. And I have another year to do it all again so maybe next year I will actually attend the party.

Fantasia!

So this weekend I saw Fantasia - and no I'm not talking about the Disney movie although that would have been nice.

So this whole weekend was one big fete (party)- fete de Ramadan to be exact- to signal the end of fasting. Thing semi-started Wednesday night - that was when people waited to see if the moon was visible which if so would signal the end of fasting and the beginning of the fete! But alas, Wednesday night there was no moon to be seen so Thursday was like any other day (aka I had to go to school to teach). But since the fete did not begin Thursday, that meant it would begin Friday!

Friday's events included a prayer which I attempted to attend however no Cameroonian informed me or the other volunteer that the prayer does not actually happen at the mosque but rather much farther out of town near the lycee. So we sat and waited for over an hour at the mosque but although we missed the prayer we did see the Lamido ride into the chefferie. I felt like I was in Aladdin when he parades into the palace. The Lamido came around the corner surrounded by people. Hewas on a horse of course and someone following him carrying a large umbrella (like one you might have on your patio furniture). There were horns blarring and people drumming- rather intimidating.

Anyway- so later that evening, there was 'feting' to be done (franglais for 'partying'). People make lots of food and invite friends over, dress up, dance, etc. I went to my neighbor's house for a bit- had some cake, plantains, chicken, croquettes- all delish. Then later in the evening I went with the my postmate (a healthvolunteer) and her health club that she runs to see them in action (selling condoms at the discotheque). So Friday was jam packed and I was exhausted at night butttt things got even better Saturday....there was FANTASIA!!

Ok before I get to that Fantasia, so Saturday was more feting - more food, more dressing up, more invites to people's houses. So before Fantasia, I went to another neighbor's house for more delish food. This was around 3:30pm and already the anticipation for Fantasia was building up and by the time we walked to the chefferie, there was a huge crowd of people everywhere and it was rather difficult to even find a spot to see...but of course we made our way through.

And now Fantasia! (fawn-ta-zia in french). The simplest way to describe it is like a mini-horse race. Everyone comes out - all the people in town, the big-wigs (like the prefet, sous-prefet, ministers, etc- oh and of course the Lamido). And then different people (I assume part of the chefferie) race horses down the street. And the Lamido waits at the end and all the people kind of salute him as they approach by raising their fists or swords. And the whole time, there are people blowing horns and these women kind of yelling ay,ay,ay every now and then. The actual Fantasia lasts about 30 minutes. But man people hung around the chefferie for hours after- people were still out dancing and just hanging out when I came home Saturday night.

Then Sunday the weekend feting was winding down. There was another Fantasia but not quite as big (the important people didn't come out for this one). But pretty much all day long horns and drums could be heard (at least at my house since I live behind the chefferie). And now all of it is over and we all have returned to regular activities like school. But no worries - there will be another fete in November with more festivities!

Barka de sallah! Bonne fete!

One of horses during Fantasia (although no one rode on this one...)

A little little bit of the crowd....soooo many people and very colorful (although you can't tell in this picture...)

FANTASIA horses!

One of the horn blowers